“If you get lost in an Icelandic forest… stand up.” Guðni says laughing and nodding his head towards the two-foot high beech forest, writes Yolanda Copes-Stepney
The tiny trees which are also made to make an Icelandic Liquer name Björk are scattered on either side of the road on our journey across the South of Iceland. This was just one of the Icelandic sayings I heard while on a short break on the North Atlantic island.
Craving an adventurous break, I booked the Icelandair Incredible Stopover package to enjoy a few days in the magnificent country before heading to my city break in Toronto. The breath-taking but savage beauty of Iceland with its mountains, volcanoes, glaciers and black beaches was a perfect choice for a complete change of scenery from the urban sprawl of London. So with walking boots and camera packed, I headed off for a 72-hour escapade with my dad.
We began our trip with a visit to the Blue Lagoon, where we applied thick clay facemasks and paddled in the warm waters ridding ourselves of city grime. After we had sloughed off our dead skin in the sulphur-scented water, we took to the roof of the Lagoons restaurant to take photos before heading to Reykajavík. We spent the first night in the Marina Hotel and enjoyed a ten course tasting menu at the nearby restaurant Kopar located right on the harbour.
The next day of the trip began with us taking to the air for the Norðurflug helicopter tour of Reykjavík and the surrounding area. We landed amongst the steam spewing fumaroles on the active Hengill volcano. As we carefully navigated the soft sulphur stained yellow, red and orange grounds of the geothermal hot spring, we snapped away on our cameras being careful not to venture too near to the bubbling water and boiling hot ground. Our guide for the trip was the knowledgeable Guðni Kristirisson.
Throughout the trip he told us stories of elves, the Norse religion and taught us Icelandic customs. His lovely warm smile and cheeky laugh was accompanied by a wicked sense of humour. He guided us through a fabulous itinerary that highlights what is truly remarkable about Iceland. One of our stops included the Gljúfrabúi, Seljalandsfoss and Skogafoss waterfalls, which we explored close up, clambering on the wet rocks to go behind the falls. As the roaring white water of Seljalandsfoss cascaded down behind our heads, we stopped and took delighted, drenched selfies.
We wound down the day horseriding at Skálakot. Icelandic horses are small, but don’t you dare call them ponies. We cantered down a route in the shadow of Eyjafjallajökull the volcano that brought aviation to a halt in 2010.
We spent our second night at the Dyrholaey Lighthouse. The working lighthouse is temporarily open for overnight visitors especially for the Incredible Stopover package. Sitting atop a cliff, the isolated building is located in the stunning surrounding of Vík í Mýrdal at the southernmost point of Iceland; it overlooks the dramatic coastline, the Mýrdalsjökull glacier and a huge arch of lava that reaches out to the sea.
Before dinner Guðni took us to the black beach at Reynisfjara where the waves crashed brutally against the pebbles while we enjoyed Prossecco and chocolate as the sun set.
When we returned to the lighthouse, we donned our sheepskin slippers and enjoyed a meal that delivered modern cuisine with traditional Icelandic ingredients made by the young chef from the nearby Vík Hotel.
Our feast began with delicious smoked puffin breast, followed by grilled langoustines. Over our starter of rainbow trout served with fennel, Atlantic salmon and white fish roe, apple, onion leaf and farmers breadcrumbs, we excitedly discussed the day. During our main course of fillet of lamb with beef onion jus, mashed potatoes, smoked shallots, smoked red onion and charred spring onions, we looked at our photos and planned which shots we’d retake in the morning. The meal was finished off with Icelandic yoghurt skyr served with homemade muesli made with honey roasted oats, blueberry meringue, crispy white chocolate and liquorice, served with bilberry juice, vanilla ice cream and chewy caramel pieces. Suitably stuffed we retired to bed.
Our final morning in Iceland was spent relaxing at the Fontana Geothermal Baths located right on the black beach of Laugarvatn Lake. We were greeted by the wide and welcoming smile of the owner Siggi who proudly showed us the hot springs were used for more than saunas and facilitating warm dips in the lake. They were used for earth baking and he showed us how to make his grandmas rye bread and in a “here’s one I made earlier” moment, he dug up a fully baked loaf that he had put in the ground 24 hours before. We enjoyed a warm slice with butter before having a dip in the lake and chilling in the sauna heated by the springs.
Our last meal was Siggi’s rye bread with smoked trout, fish stew, skyr with oats and honey and a big glass of orange and malt. We ate slowly savouring every bite. We returned to the sauna and sat in pensive silence in the balmy heat listening to the hot springs gurgling angrily underfoot mentally preparing ourselves for leaving the serenity of Iceland for the thriving metropolis of Toronto.
Against the backdrop of Iceland and an adventure that included moments of exploration as well as moments for reflection and relaxation, it really was an incredible stopover.
With an Icelandair Stopover you can stay in Iceland for up to seven nights at no additional airfare when flying on any transatlantic route. For a limited time only you can book the Incredible Stopover experience. Find out more at Icelandair.com/Stopover.
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